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A Slow Food journey across Greece and Bulgaria

Eurail staff

May 6, 2025

Click the map to view the trip in our Trip Planner

The easiest way to get to know another person? Just try their food.

 

That’s the advice given to us by Ella Mittas, who has traveled extensively during her career as a chef. 

“One of the best things in my experiences of being a chef was that I got to go into kitchens in all of these different countries,” Ella said. “Everyone is connected by food. Everyone has to eat.” 

 

In September 2024, Ella – joined by journalist Belinda Jackson and photographer Sarah Pannell – traveled from Australia to Europe and embarked on a culinary journey across Greece and Bulgaria. Along the way, they explored not only cities such as Larissa, Thessaloniki and Plovdiv, but also the intersections of Slow Travel and Slow Food. 

 

“Slow Food is...about sustainable farming practices, cooking with ingredients that are very regional specific,” explained Ella. “It’s about celebrating the producers as much as the chefs.”  

 

Connecting with chefs and farmers – by speaking directly with food producers at a market, for example – can transform your travel experience. “If you go to a place and you talk to someone and ask them about their food, [the conversation leads] in so many directions,” explained Sarah.

   

“You’re really connecting with that person, you’re really connecting with that person’s family and with the land,” said Belinda. “That is the most personal connection.”   

 

In this itinerary, perfect for traveling during the off-season, you’ll learn how to plan a Slow Food journey of your own, sampling the time-honored cuisines of Greece and Bulgaria along the way. Follow our itinerary stop by stop or simply use it for inspiration as you craft your own adventure across Europe.  

  1. Athens, Greece 🇬🇷
  2. Larissa, Greece 🇬🇷
  3. Thessaloniki, Greece 🇬🇷
  4. Sofia, Bulgaria 🇧🇬
  5. Plovdiv, Bulgaria 🇧🇬

Trip details

A woman in a black dress stands outside the door of a hotel, smiling into the sun

Chef Ella Mittas smiles outside the Elliot Neapoli guesthouse in Athens (credit: Sarah Pannell)

Athens, Greece

Why it's worth visiting:

Your Slow Food journey begins in Athens, the capital of Greece. Home to thousands of restaurants, we recommend travelers to Athens seek out regional specialties, prepared with seasonal, local ingredients — and, when in doubt, don't be afraid to ask a local to recommend their favorite restaurants. 

What to do:
  • Start with a stop at Mokka, a specialty coffee shop where you can boost your energy with traditional Greek coffee brewed over hot sand.  
  • Then, head next door to Varvakios Agora (also known as the Athens Central Market). With vendors selling vegetables, meats, soups and other foods, the historic food hall is an essential stop on any culinary tour of Athens.  
  • Get an up-close look at your meal getting cooked to perfection by dining at Akra, a restaurant where chefs prepare food in an open kitchen. With a frequently changing menu, no visit will be the same – and make sure you save room for Akra’s celebrated pastries and desserts.  
Suggested route
  • From: Athens
  • To: Larissa
  • Average travel time: 3 hours, 22 minutes
  • Transfers: 0
  • Seat reservations: Required
tip-image
View train connections and reservation options in the timetable.
A close-up of an outdoor vendor cart filled with koulouri (a type of bread with sesame seeds)

While in Greece, don't miss the chance to try koulouri, a mouth-watering bread with sesame seeds (credit: Sarah Pannell)

Larissa, Greece

Why it's worth visiting:

Welcome to Larissa, located in Greece’s green and bountiful Thessaly region. Around the city lies sprawling farmland, where residents cultivate grains, watermelon, wine and beyond. “The growers and the farms – it’s like the lifeblood of everything,” said Sarah.   

What to do:
  • Taste modern Greek fare, with a nod to historic traditions, at Vosporos Restaurant and Bar in the Philippoupolis neighborhood of Larissa.  
  • Book a pie-making workshop, a tour, or another activity at Tsiadi Farm, a biodynamic farm accessible by car from Larissa.  
  • Take a 20-minute bus ride to Tyrnavos, a nearby town known for its Tsipouro and wine production. Producers such as Domaine D. Migas and Domaine Zafeirakis offer tours of their vineyards, giving travelers an up-close look at Thessalian wine production. 

 

Suggested route
  • From: Larissa
  • To: Thessaloniki
  • Average travel time: 1 hour, 45 minutes
  • Transfers: 0
  • Seat reservations: Not required
tip-image
View train connections and reservation options in the timetable.
A group of people sit and eat at a long outdoor table under the shade of trees

Ella, Belinda and other travelers dine with the owners of Kourtis Winery and Fotiadis Farm under the winery's chestnut trees (credit: Sarah Pannell)

Thessaloniki, Greece

Why it's worth visiting:

Greece’s second biggest city may be best known for its White Tower, Byzantine baths and other noteworthy historical sites – but on this visit, take time to explore Thessaloniki’s vast culinary scene. In between meals, relax and catch an Aegean sunset as you stroll along the city's five-kilometer waterfront. 

What to do:
  • Start your time in Thessaloniki with a meal at Sintrofi, a restaurant known for its organic dishes in the city's Ladadika neighborhood.
  • After spending time exploring Thessaloniki, take a day trip to Kourtis Winery near Katerini, just an hour away from Thessaloniki by car. In the shadow of Mount Olympus, visitors can sample cheeses and meats from the nearby Fotiadis Farm, a traditional black pig farm. "We met the creators of the food that we were going to eat,” said Belinda. “Everyone wanted to stay there, everyone wanted to move in.” 
  • Spend an evening at the landmark waterfront restaurant Olympos Naoussa. The most essential dish to try while in Thessaloniki? Belinda posed this question to the chef at Olympos Naoussa. “He didn’t even hesitate,” Belinda described, thinking back on their conversation. “It was ‘mussels, from out there.’ And by ‘out there,’ he means the sea.”
Suggested route
  • From: Thessaloniki
  • To: Sofia
  • Average travel time: 7 hours, 45 minutes
  • Transfers: 1 (Note: There are no train crossings from Greece into Bulgaria. It's possible to take a Union Ivkoni bus, which is not included in the Pass, from Thessaloniki to Blagoevgrad and then a regional train from Blagoevgrad to Sofia.)
  • Seat reservations:  Not required
tip-image
View train connections and reservation options in the timetable.
A woman (Ella) smiles at a table covered with food. Two men (the chef and the owner of Staria Chinar) stand and smile behind her

Ella Mittas smiles for a photo along with Viktor Valkov (left) and Cvetelin Dimitrov (right), the chef and owner of Staria Chinar (credit: Sarah Pannell)

Sofia, Bulgaria

Why it's worth visiting:

Sofia, the capital city of Bulgaria, is the perfect place to begin sampling the best of Bulgarian cuisine. Dining in Bulgaria feels like “a real celebration,” said Ella. “That’s what makes the food culture [in Sofia] special.”

What to do:
  • Get acquainted with traditional Bulgarian cuisine with a visit to Staria Chinar or Pod Lipite, a restaurant which produces almost all of its ingredients at a nearby farm.  
  • Visit one of Sofia’s open-air farmers markets (such as the Roman Wall Market, hosted on Saturday mornings) and get the chance to taste vegetables, fruits and other produce grown near Sofia.  
  • Step into the stars with a visit to Cosmos Restaurant, which serves traditional Bulgarian dishes in a futuristic, space-inspired setting. “We work with a lot of products from different farmers, different small producers. We try to provide everything which is in season,” described head chef Vladi Penov.
Suggested route
  • From: Sofia
  • To: Plovdiv
  • Average travel time: 3 hours
  • Transfers: 0
  • Seat reservations: Not required
tip-image
View train connections and reservation options in the timetable.
A group of people sit and converse at a restraurant table covered in food

Ella and Belinda dine alongside fellow travelers at Aylyakria Restaurant in Plovdiv (credit: Sarah Pannell).

Plovdiv, Bulgaria

Why it's worth visiting:

Just as Denmark is known for “hygge,” Plovdiv is famous for “aylyak,” a concept of embracing idle joys, with the goal of living a calm life, full of pleasures. On a visit to Plovdiv, one of Europe’s oldest cities, move slowly with a spirit of “aylyak” as you explore its ancient, cobblestoned streets.  

What to do:
  • Embark on an adventure with Slow Tours Bulgaria. The tour company offers thoughtfully crafted excursions to smaller villages, such as Kurtovo Konare, famous for its mouth-watering pink tomatoes. The tomatoes are "very sweet, very delicious,” described Ekaterina Terzieva, CEO and founder of Slow Tours Bulgaria.  
  • Tomatoes are king at Pavaj, a restaurant known for its vegetables grown at a garden just outside Plovdiv. The menu varies seasonally, which means your meal will always reflect the time in which you visit Plovdiv. 
  • “Aylyak” is the name of the game – literally – at Aylyakria Restaurant, a Plovdiv gastro bar known for serving traditional Bulgarian dishes alongside international cuisine (think bao buns and quesadillas), all made with carefully sourced ingredients.