Beyond Helsinki and into Finland's soul

As I step out from Tampere station, the first thing I feel is the energy. There are more people around, and it feels like there is a buzz in the air. Tampere has an old, industrial city feel. There are many red-bricked warehouses, old factories, and towering chimney stacks, with a sprinkling of Art Deco.

“It puts me in mind of Manchester,” I thought upon arrival, only to have this confirmed by a guide who mentioned that Tampere is called the “Manchester of Finland.” Like its English cousin, it is vibrant and alive with bars, clubs, music venues and sport. There are art galleries and, of course, the world’s only Moomin Museum. Not only this but Tampere is the sauna capital of Finland.

• Take a sauna and a cold dip. It is a key part of Finnish culture. and wherever you go, there will be sauna. Try the riverside Saunaravintola Kuuma and look out across the harbor before plunging into the invigoratingly chilly waters, or try Rajaportti, Finland’s oldest public sauna. 
• Visit the Moomin Museum and explore the world created in the mind of Finland’s most famous author and illustrator/artist, Tove Jansson. The captivating display includes copies of original texts, wonderful models created by Tove’s partner, and life-sized replicas of Moomin scenes. It’s magical for children and adults alike. 
• Wander the Finlayson Area, a red-bricked cotton mill that is now home to shops, cinemas, cafés, restaurants, and art galleries and hosts a range of events across the year.  

Deep in the heart of Finnish Lakeland (there are 188,000 lakes across the country) lies the town of Jyväskylä. Standing on the viewing deck of the Vesilinna Observation tower, I look around and appreciate just how nature-dominated Jyväskylä is. Three lakes surround the city, and the hills in between are carpeted in trees. Nowhere feels too far from the wild, and the air tastes fresh.

My nature guide, Katri, takes me out to the wonderfully and fully accessible Haukanniemi Nature Trail. Within minutes, we are removed from the hustle and bustle of city life and are listening to the sounds of the trees rustling and the birds chittering. Katri stokes up a fire in the fire pit and before I know it, we are tucking into a fresh lunch of vegetables, wild mushrooms and fish. Delicious!

• Hire an experienced nature guide and get out into the wild on an adventure where you can feel the depth of the countryside. 
• Visit the Alvar Aalto Museum. The world-renowned architect called Jyväskylä home, and the museum offers a glimpse into his life and his impact on global architecture. 
• Have a sauna either in the creature comfort and modernity of Satama Viilu and treat yourself to a beautiful meal in the sauna restaurant or — for the more adventurous — hire a floating sauna for the afternoon and sail into the lake. 

In the far east of Finland is the Karelian capital of Joensuu. On the day I arrive, the sun is bright and glittering off the Pielisjoki River that runs through the heart of the city. Here, again, there is a feeling of space and closeness to nature.

Catching a steamboat down the river, I appreciate just how much space there is in Finland. Shorelines are dotted with summer houses that seem an idyllic escape. The craft center Taitokortteli affords me a morning of browsing boutique shops for gifts; it’s also where I attempt a stitching workshop that reinforces my belief that I am not a practical person.

• Take a cruise down the Pielisjoki River on the family-owned-and-run SS Sinivoukko and get a sense of Finland’s wild landscapes.

• Sign up for a Karelian pie-making course at Martta Café in Joensuu Market Square, and take your handmade delicacies to the riverside for a picnic. 

• Visit Jokiasema’s lively quayside for lunch and rent out some kayaks from the fantastic Matti at Kalastusretket Joensuu.

Rolling back into Helsinki, my circle through southern Finland is complete — but I still have a couple of days to explore Finland’s capital, the second-most northerly in the world.

There is a lot of art and creativity in Finland, and perhaps nowhere else showcases this more than Vallisaari Island. I caught a ferry to explore the island’s old military base and bunker complex that is now an art installation, currently hosting Helsinki Biennial. I wandered the paths and tracks through the forest and found myself with tubular statues, scent sculptures and in dark bunkers with plants injected with bioluminescence.

Back in the city, I explored restaurants and cafes along Helsinki’s streets, lined with Art Nouveau and Neo-Gothic buildings, passing sites such as the grandiose Uspenski Cathedral. As a final treat, I caught the boat for one last sauna on Lonna Island and a visit to its delicious restaurant.

• Helsinki is a city full of galleries and has had many famous artists tread its pavements. Helsinki Art Museum (HAM) and the Vallisaari Island installations are great examples of the many creative experiences that you can have.

• Spend a relaxing afternoon on Lonna Island experiencing the sauna and taking a dip in the sea. Afterwards, head to the terrace of the restaurant and bar and allow your stresses and strains to seep away. 

• Visit Market Square and explore the open-air food and craft stalls selling seasonal fruit, vegetables and flowers. It takes place throughout the summer months, all within view of the Uspenski Cathedral, the Helsinki Cathedral, Helsinki City Hall and the Presidential Palace.  

Finland is one of the most accessible countries in which I have traveled. Information is generally available and societal views of inclusion practices are positive and forward-looking. From a practical perspective, trams in cities are roll on/off and buses the same, or fitted with ramps with positions for wheelchair users reserved. Most train stations offer accessible access and assistance, although this may vary on your route; it is always best to check ahead with the national VR train company. All the operators that I spoke with were fluent in English.

Hotels such as the Scandic chain and Sokos chain offer fully accessible rooms. By and large, you can find good detail on accommodation websites. Some tourist attractions have limited access, and this may be the case with particular cruises. It is always worth checking in advance. 

Ten days had transformed my understanding of what Finland offers beyond its capital. This wasn't just a journey through geography, it was a master class in how a country can surprise you when you venture beyond the obvious.

The rhythm of Finnish trains had become a meditation as I gently rocked through endless forests, sudden clearings revealing mirror-like lakes and brief glimpses of red summer cottages nestled among birch trees. Unlike Western Europe's packed carriages, Finnish trains offered space to breathe and to exist without the constant buzz of overtourism.

Each city revealed a different facet of the Finnish soul. In Turku, Finnish reserve melted away completely amid the medieval festival. In Tampere’s Saunaravintola Kuuma, a sense of vulnerability created instant community, no common language needed when you're all gasping from the same ice-cold plunge. Munching on foraged food on a wooded, serene lakeside in the wilds outside of Jyväskylä, whilst a family taught their toddlers to toast marshmallows on forks, gave me an insight into the closeness of nature and community in Finland.

But perhaps my trip was summed up when talking with the effusive Helena, co-owner of the wonderfully homely Lietsu Boutique Aparthotels.

"Finland doesn't reveal itself quickly,” she said. “But when it does, you'll never forget."

For fellow Interrailers seeking something beyond the well-worn Amsterdam-Berlin-Prague circuit, Finland offers space in every sense. My Interrail Pass may have expired, but my love affair with Finland has only just begun.